While working on changing mine yesterday, the main frame bolt was coming out VERY hard. I was concerned I was missing something, so went online. This is exactly what I needed to confirm that I was doing it correctly, and finished off the replacement. Thanks for the straight forward clear video.
So much easier when car is raised as shown. Spray the 3 nuts a day or so beforehand witn penetrating oil. The bushings should be cleaned & bolts lubricated too before re-assembly & tightened under load. Recommend checking tracking afterwards.
Do I need to tighten all bolts when the car is placed on the ground or can I torque them up with the car in the air. Thanks for the tutorial, it was very helpful.
Thank you for your feedback ! We are happy that you like our overview video. You are absolutely right - a control tightening of suspension fixings is to be carried out , when a car is on its wheel under the load of its own weight. Best regards, Autodoc.
Warning if you're attempting to do this, buy spare bolts. The inner bushing was seized to the bolt and you will waste a day and get nowhere. Ended up having to put it all back together until I get the spare bolts. My arm was in there for 180k miles. Probably should've been changed earlier. If that bolt chokes your impact or you get out of the threads and it won't slide through like it did for this guy, just cut it off but make sure you have the bolt before hand.
⚠ Это пример неправильной установки! Вот как надо (это из оф.мануала) : Важно: приготовьте запасные болты сайлентблоков. старые скорее всего не пригодны для повторного использования. 1) Установите рычаг подвески, но затяните болты рычага подвески только временно. (вообще вторым пунктом идёт - установка подшипников, но можно и без этого) 2) Установите колесо и затяните колесные гайки до указанного крутящего момента. Момент затяжки Колесная гайка: 85 Н·м (8,5 кгс-м, 61,5 фунт-фут) 3) Опустите подъемник на ненагруженном автомобиле, затяните болты поперечного рычага с указанным моментом. Момент затяжки Болтов сайлентблоков (оба болта): 95 Н·м (9,5 кгс-м, 69,0 фунт-фут), болт шаровой - 60 Н·м
Yes, it is recommended to lubricate the components when replacing them. Thank you for your valuable clarification, this will be very useful information for our viewers. AUTODOC
Meanwhile other mechanics are tearing down the entire suspension to remove the suspension arm. Lol you only need to remove the three bolts and separate the ball joint from the knuckle as professionally demonstrated in this video.
Thank you for your feedback! We are very happy that our videos appeared to be useful for you. However, the replacement complicacy and sequence may differ depending on car design features and car part status. Best regards, Autodoc.
I have changed mine by carefully watching this video. At the beggining It was a nightmare. After I saw the tap in the control arm with the hummer from below, was the key to fit inside. It is true that the company manual tears down the whole base of suspension. I think they are psycho. Your mechanic in autodoc is a genius. I have seen this video more than 30 times.
Wrong. Only the bolt of control arm that is attached to the wheel should be torqued to spec while on hoist. The other 2 bolts of control arm should be temporarily tightened that will still allow arm to move freely. Those 2 can only be torqued when the car is on the ground so the rubbers will not have stress and fail earlier.
Нельзя затягивать болты сайлентблоков, если машина не стоит под своим весом, т.е. нужно затянуть их не до конца, установить колесо, отпустить подъёмник и только после этого дотягивать до конца. Вы же тут всех дезинформируете!
While working on changing mine yesterday, the main frame bolt was coming out VERY hard. I was concerned I was missing something, so went online. This is exactly what I needed to confirm that I was doing it correctly, and finished off the replacement. Thanks for the straight forward clear video.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Dude knocked that out in 6 minutes.
So much easier when car is raised as shown. Spray the 3 nuts a day or so beforehand witn penetrating oil. The bushings should be cleaned & bolts lubricated too before re-assembly & tightened under load. Recommend checking tracking afterwards.
If only all repairs were so easy
I'd like to see you do a video on replacing the power steering high pressure line and return line. Went at mine yesterday and I believe I aged 10yrs
Wow, amazing work, very proof...Please, do you have a video with replacement of Engine Cross Member from SX4?
Thank you for your feedback! Thank you for the interest in our channel. Unfortunately,we don't have such video. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great job!!!
Videos are great help though
Near brand new car and no rust and ramp!
Do I need to tighten all bolts when the car is placed on the ground or can I torque them up with the car in the air. Thanks for the tutorial, it was very helpful.
Thank you for your feedback ! We are happy that you like our overview video. You are absolutely right - a control tightening of suspension fixings is to be carried out , when a car is on its wheel under the load of its own weight. Best regards, Autodoc.
Warning if you're attempting to do this, buy spare bolts. The inner bushing was seized to the bolt and you will waste a day and get nowhere. Ended up having to put it all back together until I get the spare bolts. My arm was in there for 180k miles. Probably should've been changed earlier. If that bolt chokes your impact or you get out of the threads and it won't slide through like it did for this guy, just cut it off but make sure you have the bolt before hand.
Thank you for sharing your experience, this will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Hi. Do you know what the specs of the bolts are and where I can get them? I plan on replacing my nsf arm.
@@ean8243 I need to know the specs too. Mine broke off completely and I need a replacement 1.
What is the recommend torque if I don't have the impact wrench?
From manual:
Tightening torque of Suspension control arm bolt: 95 N·m (9.5 kgf-m, 69.0 lb-ft)
Suspension arm ball joint bolt - 60 N·m (6.0 kgf-m, 43.5 lb-ft)
-Front suspension frame mounting bolt(non-precoated) 108.5 lb-ft
-Front suspension frame mounting bolt(pre-coated bolt with friction stabilizer) 69 lb-ft
-Ball joint nut 43.5lb-ft
⚠ Это пример неправильной установки! Вот как надо (это из оф.мануала) :
Важно: приготовьте запасные болты сайлентблоков. старые скорее всего не пригодны для повторного использования.
1) Установите рычаг подвески, но затяните болты рычага подвески только временно.
(вообще вторым пунктом идёт - установка подшипников, но можно и без этого)
2) Установите колесо и затяните колесные гайки до указанного крутящего момента. Момент затяжки Колесная гайка: 85 Н·м (8,5 кгс-м, 61,5 фунт-фут)
3) Опустите подъемник на ненагруженном автомобиле, затяните болты поперечного рычага с указанным моментом. Момент затяжки Болтов сайлентблоков (оба болта): 95 Н·м (9,5 кгс-м, 69,0 фунт-фут), болт шаровой - 60 Н·м
Should the components be lubricated a little when replaced ?
Yes, it is recommended to lubricate the components when replacing them.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, this will be very useful information for our viewers.
AUTODOC
Meanwhile other mechanics are tearing down the entire suspension to remove the suspension arm. Lol you only need to remove the three bolts and separate the ball joint from the knuckle as professionally demonstrated in this video.
Thank you for your feedback! We are very happy that our videos appeared to be useful for you. However, the replacement complicacy and sequence may differ depending on car design features and car part status. Best regards, Autodoc.
I have changed mine by carefully watching this video. At the beggining It was a nightmare. After I saw the tap
in the control arm with the hummer from below, was the key to fit inside. It is true that the company manual tears down
the whole base of suspension. I think they are psycho. Your mechanic in autodoc is a genius. I have seen this video more than 30 times.
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Wrong. Only the bolt of control arm that is attached to the wheel should be torqued to spec while on hoist. The other 2 bolts of control arm should be temporarily tightened that will still allow arm to move freely. Those 2 can only be torqued when the car is on the ground so the rubbers will not have stress and fail earlier.
You must have the weight of the car on the wheel before you tightened up the inner two bolts,really!
Thank you for the valuable clarification, for our viewers it will be very useful information.
AUTODOC
not the best camerawork - don´t need to see repairmans back so many times - more interested in what he is actually doing with the tools.
Нельзя затягивать болты сайлентблоков, если машина не стоит под своим весом, т.е. нужно затянуть их не до конца, установить колесо, отпустить подъёмник и только после этого дотягивать до конца. Вы же тут всех дезинформируете!
Instead of the stupid music, why not get a narrotor to explain what is being done.🤔🤨